1. Training should be an enjoyable experience for you and your dog. If you are not in the right mood for training, don’t even start. Keep training sessions short, on the order of 5-10 minutes, to maintain your dog’s motivation. If your dog doesn’t respond appropriately to a command after several attempts, don’t reward him.

Always end training on a positive note. Ask your dog to respond to a command you know he will obey. Then reward him for a job well done and issue a finish command such as “free” or “release.” Avoid common words such as “okay.” Following a training session, both owner and dog should be left with a feeling of accomplishment.

2. Every dog should be familiar with the basic obedience commands, including come, heel, sit, down and stay. Teaching your dog to sit-stay and down-stay off leash is also a valuable lesson. Additional commands that are useful include: leave it, give it, stop it, and enough or cease.

Keep in mind that a dog’s motivation to respond to a command decreases as the complexity of the task increases. The odds of success, hinge not only on the degree of sophistication of the task but also your dog’s motivation to respond. From a dog’s perspective the question is, which is more rewarding, chasing the squirrel or returning to the owner? Understanding this aspect will increase your patience and chances for success.

3. Training should not involve any negative or punishment-based components. There should be no yelling, no hitting, no chain jerking, no hanging, and absolutely no electric shock. Each session should be upbeat and positive with rewards for jobs well done.

Remember that the opposite of reward is not punishment; it is no reward. If you ignore unacceptable responses, your dog will not be rewarded for his failed response. Most dogs want to please their owners or, at the very least, to obtain highly valued resources (food, attention and toys).

4. Ensure that your dog’s motivation for reward is highest during a training session. If food is the reward, train before a meal, not after. If praise, petting and other aspects of your attention are to be used as a reward, schedule the training session at a time when your dog hungers for your attention (for example, after you have returned from work).

For complex tasks, such as the off leash down-stay, your dog will be more motivated to comply if he has received moderate exercise before the training session. Asking a dog that is bursting with energy to remain in a prolonged reclining position is asking for failure during the early stages of training.

5. Make sure the reward you offer in training is the most powerful one for your dog. Food-motivated dogs work well for food, but the treats used should be favorite foods for the dog, such as small pieces of cheese or freeze-dried liver. You want your dog to be strongly motivated to obey commands to receive the treat.

Food treats, if used, should be small – no bigger than the size of your little fingernail. The texture of the treat should be such that it does not require chewing and should not crumble, otherwise you will lose your dog’s attention as he Hoovers up the crumbs. Large treats, like Milk Bones®, take too long to eat, causing the dog to lose attention.

If praise is used as a reward, deliver it in high singsong tones, which are most pleasing for the dog. Also, enthusiasm in your voice will be much appreciated. If petting is to be used as a reward, it should be in a way that the dog enjoys, such as stroking the dog’s hair on the side of his face in the same direction that it grows, or scratching him on the chest. Note: Petting on top of the head is not appreciated by most dogs.

6. Timing of the reward is important. After a correct response, reward your dog within ½ second of the command to ensure that your dog makes the connection between his behavior and the reward.

7. Use short commands such as sit, down, leave it, quiet, out, and off. Say the word once. Do not repeat the command. Dogs will remember a command for about two minutes before the notion is lost. Shorter words are better than longer words and words that end in a hard consonant (C, K, T, X) are better than those that end in a vowel because you can “spit” them out.

The only command that should have three sounds associated with it is COME. In this case, you first have to attract the dog’s attention by saying his name, ROVER, then COME (the actual command word) and GOOD BOY, even before the dog comes so that he knows he is not in trouble. Make sure your tone is crisp and cheerful.

8. Put your dog on a leash and attract his attention so he looks directly at you and you at him (“Watch-me”). Then issue an action word, SIT. A poorly trained dog might slowly get into the sitting position, at which point you reward him IMMEDIATELY with praise, GOOD BOY, ROVER, (remember the high tones and heartfelt deliverance) and at the same time as you immediately produce the reward.

An untrained dog will have to be assisted into the sitting position by moving a food treat over and above his head so that he has to sit to reach it. Successful accomplishment of the task is meets with warm praise and the food treat. In some cases, placement techniques (tension on collar, downward pressure on the rump) may have to be used.

9. Once you have a dog performing the desired response greater than 85 percent of the time in a quiet undisturbed environment, you can move onto the next stage; starting to shape the behavior toward the ideal response. You might begin by rewarding a progressively faster SIT, that is, rewarding the dog for sitting in 3 seconds, later in 2 seconds, and ultimately in 1 second, or immediately.

Decide before you give the command what you are going to reward. You can also start to reward longer and more definite SITS so the dog has to do more than just touch his rear end on the ground to receive reward. Withhold the food treat until the dog is sitting properly and then gradually introduce a time delay before the reward is given.

10. Gradually increase the length of time the dog must remain in a SIT-STAY until he can remain relaxed in this position for one minute while the owner is at a distance of 5 feet. Continue to increase the time and distance the dog is asked to remain in a SIT-STAY after the dog has been successful at the previous level for 5-10 trials.

For very long SITS, the reward should be given intermittently throughout the SIT, at least during training. The owner should teach a key phrase such as EASY or STEADY to teach the dog to associate relaxation with the exercise. It also is helpful to have a release command, such as FREE or RELEASE, which tells the dog when he has been obeying for the desired period of time.

11. Vary the commands during an individual training session – keep the training sessions short and frequent. Dogs will learn much more from regular short sessions than from longer, less frequent ones. Once the dog has learned several useful commands on the continuous reward schedule, that is, the dog is rewarded for each successful performance of the behavior, the schedule should be changed to one of intermittent reward.

Initially, the dog may be rewarded two times out of three, then every other third time, and so on until rewards are only supplied occasionally. This is the way to wean a dog off food treats and is the cure for a dog that “will only work for food.” Remember, however, it is always important to praise your dog immediately if he has performed a command properly, whether or not any other reward will be forthcoming.

12. Once training has been accomplished in a quiet area, you can gradually begin to work in environments with more distractions, continuing the training in the yard, on leash, progressively lengthening the leash between you and the dog and finally dropping it, so the dog is now obeying without you at the other end of the lead. It may be helpful to continue this training in relatively busy environments, so that you can maintain control even in distracting situations. The Holy Grail of training is to have the dog reliably obeying commands off lead, even when other things are going on around him. This level of training can be achieved but only after a lot of hard work and investment of time. It’s something to strive toward.

And remember, regarding training, “Art and science aren’t enough; Patience is the basic stuff.” (Konrad Lorenz).

Although opinions vary about the value of crate training, a crate can be a useful tool when house training a young puppy, or even an adult dog. For dogs, a crate can be a place of sanctuary, a place of retreat from the busy home life. Some experts consider properly conducted crate training as imperative as appropriate healthcare, timely neutering, and obedience training. At the other end of the spectrum are folk who would no sooner confine a dog to a crate than lock their children in the laundry closet.
Not all dogs respond the same way to crates. Some gravitate to them willingly; others detest them and will injure themselves in them while trying to escape. Why the difference? Nurture and developmental experience have a lot to do with the answer. Dogs forced to stay in crates, or other small confined places, under extreme adverse circumstances develop a “post-traumatic” association and will panic when confronted with similar confinement. On the other hand, a dog that has been well managed in a crate as a youngster may positively revel his crate as a place of security and comfort.

• Bad experiences in a crate include lengthy confinement for many hours at a time, infrequent attention during confinement, and absence of attachment figures. For dogs that have had unpleasant experiences in a crate, confinement may be viewed in the same light as prison to an ex-inmate - an experience to be avoided.
• Good experiences in a crate include circumstances that permit the crate to be viewed as a retreat or place of comfort, freedom to come and go (the door is left open periodically so that the dog is not always confined), company inside or outside the crate, and regular feeding and bathroom trips.

For a dog that has been well acclimated, a crate can be a haven, a place of comfort, a retreat from the world…a den, in fact. Many dog owners think that, because dogs are den dwellers at heart, they will all automatically appreciate a crate. But real dens do not have doors. This is why care must be taken to encourage your dog to view his den as a retreat or sanctuary.

Crate Training Your Puppy -

For the owner, careful crate training can help to deal with housebreaking. Most dogs respect the sanctity of den, and their nature directs them against soiling the nest area. Thus, a crate can be used to confine a dog between unsuccessful excursions to a selected outside “bathroom” area.
No matter what age you begin crate training your dog, all experiences within the crate should be good ones. Ideally, begin with a very young pup (the most malleable substrate), and establish good associations with each exposure to the crate. This can be arranged by:

• Allowing the pup free access to the crate so that he can come and go at will prior to confining him
• Make the crate a comfortable place by putting a blanket and perhaps some toys inside
• Praise the pup every time he goes in the crate
• Confine the pup (shut the door of the crate) for short periods of time, at first, ensuring that company is at hand (either you or a closely bonded canine counterpart)
• Never use the crate as a place of punishment
• Make sure that no one disturbs the pup when he is inside the crate so the crate comes to be appreciated as a place of refuge

Using the above protocol, there is no reason that the dog should not gravitate toward the crate for rest and relaxation. If this is achieved, the dog will find the crate amongst his favorite places in life. Unfortunately, because of bad experiences, many dogs grow up loathing their crate with a vengeance, acting out in one way or another whenever they are confined.

Crate Training Your Adult Dog -

The following is a program by which older dogs can be introduced or even reintroduced to crates as a place of refuge. The goal is to systematically desensitize the dog by making the crate appear as benign as possible.

• Position the crate in a high traffic area of the house and make the interior of the crate comfortable and inviting
• Enrich the space with food treats/toys and initially, always leave the door open
• Feed the dog progressively closer to the entrance of the crate, and reward him with praise as he gets closer to the crate
• Eventually, move the food bowl across the threshold of the crate and then just inside the crate so that he has to put his head and shoulders inside in order to eat
• Move the food bowl progressively further towards the back of the crate so that the dog has to go further inside to eat
• Always praise the dog for being in or near the crate
• Do not confine the dog in the crate until he shows that he will enter willingly and of his own accord
• If things go well with the acclimation, the next thing is to try closing and fastening the door for brief periods, while staying in the area.
• Gradually, the duration of confinement can be increased. Eventually you may be able to leave the dog confined for considerable periods of time and have tranquility prevail
• Do not leave the dog alone in the crate while you are away until he is perfectly comfortable being in it while you are there

The program may take time but it will work. Note: With any behavioral modification scheme, like crate training, the golden rule is that if there is no progress in 3 to 5 days, change the strategy. It is important to emphasize throughout training and beyond that the crate should never be a place in which the dog has any negative experiences.

Dominant Dogs and Crates -

In general, dominant dogs resist anything that they don't like and will protect anything that they enjoy. If you try to force a dominant dog into a crate against his will, you have a pretty good idea of how he will respond. You might get such a dog into the crate eventually, but only with much growling, snapping, or even attempts to bite. Conversely, a dominant dog that views his crate as his own personal space may take the opposite tack and begin space guarding, i.e. growling at people who approach the crate or attempt to remove him.

Crating Dogs with Separation Anxiety -

For some dogs with separation anxiety, the crate can be a place of refuge from their woes. They may be much happier inside a crate when their owner is away than when wandering free. For others, crates are an imposition, a misery, and an obstacle to be overcome at the expense of broken teeth and fractured claws. Owners return home to find these dogs bug-eyed, in a frenzy, and salivating profusely, and may even come home to find the crate splattered with urine, feces, and/or blood. For such dogs, the use of a crate is not a good approach, at least, not without a lot of retraining.

Crating the Compulsives -

Then there is the third group of crate-astrophes, the compulsive dogs. These dogs may have already suffered boredom and inadequate stimulation as a result of long hours of confinement. Such dogs, depending on their individual predilections will, variously, lick themselves, spin in circles, chase their own tails, or pace mindlessly. And crates may precipitate such behavior. Crates are usually contraindicated for dogs with such conditions.

Conclusion -

Crates are good tools for some dogs, some of the time. But, even when the crate works well for a dog, it is unwise to confine the dog for more than 4 to 6 hours a day to avoid having the crate becoming associated with negative experiences. Every dog should have an open door crate to go in if they so desire: A place to go when things get hectic, just for a little peace. Used in this way, a crate can be as much appreciated by the dog as having a room of their own room is appreciated by teenagers. And it is possible, once the dog enjoys the crate to close the door on occasion. But remember, confinement is for the convenience of the owners, not the dog’s, and should be employed sparingly.

The new wave of pet animal training focuses on positive or reward-based training only. The idea is to train your dog to perform certain desired behaviors rather than to punish unwanted behavior. For example, you would not train a dog to stop barking by punishing the unwanted behavior; instead you would reward the silence that inevitably follows.

Timing of rewards is critical. If a dog stops barking for three seconds and you have to reach into your pocket for a food treat and then walk toward the dog to deliver it, the moment may have already passed. Yet it is difficult to have primary rewards (food, water, toys) handy at all times, so how can this best be managed?

The answer is using a “secondary re-enforcer,” like praise or a neutral cue that signals that the primary re-enforcer is due. In animal training, whistles and clicks have been used as secondary re-enforcers, though you can also use your voice. Clicks made by small plastic clickers (“frogs”) are probably the best and most consistent way of marking the successful accomplishment of a behavior.

Initially the click is meaningless to the dog but it doesn’t take long for it to realize that a click signals something good. At this stage, a click can be used to reward a desired behavior instantly, accurately, and even from a distance. Engaging in clicker training is fun for the pet owner and the pet. It’s constructive, produces rapid results, and the learning is indelible. Clicker training doesn’t mean you have to spend hours a day teaching yourself and your pet what to do - a few minutes a day is all it takes. Treat yourself: Go out and buy a clicker kit and get started, and throw away that old choke chain.

• Choose a quiet location where you can be alone and undisturbed with your dog.
• Have a supply of food treats on hand. Diced up hotdog, chicken, bacon, or cheese, are good treats. The treats should be diced up into pea-sized chunks.
• Have your clicker in your hand or attached to your belt.

Step 1 - Pair a click with a reward – for nothing at first. Click-treat; click-treat; and so on. By the end of this stage you should:

a) Have your dog’s undivided attention
b) Notice that your dog has learned to associate the new sound with a reward.

Step 2 - Begin to click and treat only when the dog has engaged in some desired behavior. Initially, chose a behavior that the dog readily performs, like sitting or looking at you (i.e. go with the natural flow). There are two circumstances in which a click (followed by reward) is indicated:

1). Immediately on completion of a finished behavior (e.g. sitting).
2). When your dog takes a step or two in the right direction of a behavior that you would like to encourage (e.g. if he moves toward that newspaper you want him to pick up), subsequently rewarding progressively closer moves toward your eventual behavioral goal for him. This process is called “shaping.”

Step 3 - Add a verbal cue to signal your willingness to reward a finished behavior. Click only when the dog performs the desired behavior when the verbal cue is given. E.g. click coming to you only after you have cued, “come.”

Note: Vary the time between the click and the treat from immediate to a second or two later. The dog learns from this maneuver that a click signals that a treat is coming even though he might not know precisely where or when. He also learns that if he performs a behavior that you approve of he can make you click... and that means food.

Specific Exercises -

Sit - If your dog does not sit quickly enough to allow you to click and reward, you can lure him into sitting. First, put a food treat in your closed hand and position your hand over the dog’s head. As he shows interest in the enclosed treat gradually move your hand back over the dog’s head so that, in the process of following it, the dog will naturally assume the sitting posture. Then click and reward.

It doesn’t have to be a great sit at first – just an excuse for a sit will be fine. You can refine the sit later by progressively raising the bar on what will be clicked and rewarded. Remember that the click signals the successful completion of any phase of the behavior and that a “real” reward is due – but not when that real reward (e.g. food) will be given.

Off If your dog jumps up on you during training don’t react. Don’t do anything until he has “four feet on the floor.” Then click and reward. Repeat this as necessary.

Down - Similar to training sit but with a different trajectory for the food lure.

a) Show the dog your clenched fist containing the food treat.
b) Slowly lower your fist toward his chest, between the elbows. The dog’s head will follow the treat so that he assumes a “hunkered over” posture.
c) Next, move your fist (still clenched) slowly away from the dog so that he slides forward... and down.

Don’t worry if it doesn’t go fully according to plan at first attempt. Remember to start by rewarding even approximations toward the desired behavior, “shaping” the complete behavior in stages.

Long Sit/Down - Once your dog has learned to sit or lie down to make you click, you can start shaping the behavior toward longer durations of these behaviors. To accomplish this, do not click right away but rather delay the click and reward by a few seconds. The length of delay can be increased clicking only once to signal the end of the required behavior. The dog will learn that if he sits or lies down for long enough a click and treat will eventually come.

Fading the Lure - Of course, you don’t have to keep food in your clenched hand and wave it around forever in order to get your dog to perform. Once a behavior is occurring with the appropriate hand movements, simply stop using them and wait for the response to occur without direction and of the dog’s own volition.

Come - Start by sitting on the floor or crouching down and calling your dog to you. Look enthusiastic and pat or scratch the floor in front of you. “Buddy, come here, good boy.” If Buddy comes, click – reward and move to another location. Repeat this exercise many times. If you have more than one person you can practice this recall between 2 or 3 people. Each one calls the dog in turn and whenever he responds to the call successfully – click and treat.

Dog owners will probably want to take this show on the road. First – try the same exercise in a quiet yard, with a long leash attached. But never jerk the leash or haul the dog to you. The leash is just to keep him within a certain radius of you and limit his area of interest. If all successful “comes” are clicked and well rewarded the behavior will become almost automatic.

Golden rules -

a) Never coerce the “come.”
b) Never punish or chastise an imperfect response.
c) Never call a dog to punish him.

And remember, in order to solidify the response during every day life use the “come” command plus a click and treat for coming when you have anything special to offer to your dog e.g. a car ride, dinner, a special food treat, or new toy.

Walking to Heel - Actually, walking to heel is not very important, but walking with a slack lead and not pulling is important. As usual with clicker training, start with baby steps. Attach the lead and coax your dog to stand at your left side by patting your left thigh. Click, reward. Take a pace forward and coax him to join you – not with a food treat as a lure - by calling him along enthusiastically. “Come on Buddy, let’s go” (patting thigh). If (and when) he takes a pace forward click-treat. Click for one pace, then for two, and so on. Pretty soon you’ll be up and walking. Click him while he is in motion. That stops him; then give the treat and off you go again.

Voice Commands - We mentioned using voice cues to train come, but not sit, down, or walk to heel. Don’t worry, commands can be added later, after the behavior has been shaped. Your dog will soon learn that he is rewarded if he responds in the desired way only after the requisite command has been given.

By using a puppy crate or confined area, and plenty of rewards for outdoor urination and defecation, you can train your puppy to “go” outdoors.

For many new puppy owners, house-training is the first order of business, after lots of cuddling. It is also the first hurdle encountered by new puppy owners. The good news is that, unless the new puppy was previously confined for long periods in dirty living conditions, she will naturally tend to avoid doing her "business" in places where she must sleep or eat. This instinct is important when it comes to house-training. It’s also one of the reasons for acclimating your puppy to a crate, or some other small area for times when she can’t be supervised.

How Long Can She “Hold It”?

Even young puppies can be expected to "hold it" for at least a short period of time. As a general rule, that can translate to one hour for each month of age, give or take an hour. For example, your 3-month old puppy might easily resist urination for three to four hours and should be fine in the crate for that short time.

Probably because she sleeps for much of the time, she’ll often learn to stay dry overnight before she can repeat her performance during the day. If it’s necessary to leave her for longish intervals, your puppy shouldn’t be crated. Instead, consider the use of a baby gate to confine her to a slightly larger area, such as the kitchen or laundry room. This will still allow her to maintain a natural cleanliness because she can eat and sleep away from the areas where she has soiled.

To ease cleanup and train your new pup to urinate and defecate on a specific surface, place newspapers in the previously soiled area. The use of newspapers, so-called paper training, can be avoided altogether if you can take your puppy outdoors frequently.

Your Time - Your Responsibility

The best situation, of course, is to be home with your puppy, or at least to have a flexible schedule allowing home visits every few hours, until she’s housetrained. She should be taken outdoors to a designated "toilet" area every few hours but if you take her too often she may become confused about the purpose of the visits. Immediately after urination or defecation, reward her with a small food tidbit.

If the toilet visit is unproductive, go back indoors after just a few minutes and restrict the puppy in a crate, gated area, or even on a leash near you for 15 minutes and then try again. With persistence, she’ll quickly learn to associate that outdoor area with elimination. Once she has urinated and defecated outdoors, she can have freedom indoors for a short time, at least.

Don’t Punish Your Pup -

Because punishment can be both mentally and physically harmful to your young puppy, it should not be used during house-training. If you catch your pup in the act, a simple handclap will distract her so you can quickly move her outdoors to finish the job. If a mess is found after the fact, punishment will only confuse her. Instead of scolding, try to figure out how to avoid the accident next time. For example, perhaps other family members can watch her more closely the next time you’re busy with dinner.

With some time, patience, and the help of a crate or confinement area, and with rewards for using the outdoor "bathroom," your puppy can be successfully trained to keep both her “den” and yours clean and dry.

"Sit" -

The “sit” exercise is probably the most practical skill you can teach your dog. Whether you’re waiting at the curb of a crowded street or competing in an obedience trial, you’ll thank yourself (and your dog) for taking the time to master this exercise.

Teaching a dog to “sit” also provides a kind of obedience gateway to all the other basic exercises, including: “sit-stay,” “down,” “down-stay,” “come” and “heel.” Training should be fun and relatively easy: Use a food lure and positive reinforcement. Short, training sessions will help your dog learn quickly – even young puppies will be eager to work if the reward is enticing enough.

Using a Food Lure -

Find a quiet indoor environment with few distractions. Start by using a small piece of food to lure your dog’s nose to point upward (toward the treat) and move the treat backwards over his head so that he naturally lowers his haunches to a sitting position. Don’t hold the treat too high or he may jump up for it.

Be prepared: As soon as he sits, give him the treat food. Repeat the exercise, adding the word “sit,” so the dog can learn quickly what you expect of him; rather than forcing his body into position, allow him to discover what is required on his own. (Note: If your dog jumps at the food, you’re probably holding it up too high).

Once this exercise has been learned, take it on the road. When your dog has mastered the skill in the quietness of your yard, try asking him to sit in other places like on the sidewalk or in the garage. Then “up the ante” by having him follow the instruction in a busy, distracting place, like a park, supermarket entrance or a crowded sidewalk. As your dog proves he has learned the meaning of the word “sit,” taper off his rewards so that he only gets a treat every third or fourth time he sits. The goal of any reinforcement program should be to graduate to supplying rewards intermittently and on a variable schedule. By rewarding your dog unpredictably — but always continuing to offer rewards at times — you can best maintain his interest in the exercise.

Think Positively -

The key to successful training is patience and a positive attitude. Scolding and physical force will only turn your dog off to the fun of these exercises. Try to keep your sessions short, approximately five to 10 minutes once or twice daily. Work with him only at times when he seems enthusiastic and attentive and end each session on a positive note. The more successful he feels, the more rewarding your efforts will be.

"Stay" -

When taught correctly, the “stay” is a hallmark of a well-mannered, contented and safe dog.

You’re walking quickly down the street with an impatient dog at the other end of a leash, on your way to the dog park when you encounter an old acquaintance. Your dog, wishing none of this delay, expresses her disapproval by winding the leash around both sets of legs. “Sit!” you command and, of course, being exquisitely trained, she immediately complies but just as quickly pops up to resume her squirming. What’s missing from this scenario?

Once your dog has mastered “sit” or “down,” an important next step is the “stay” exercise. The “stay” command assumes that your dog will maintain her position (whether sitting, lying down or even standing) until you release her. Without this skill, all you’re technically asking when you say “sit” is that your dog touch the ground with her hindquarters and spring right back up to the chase.

Teaching her to wait, essentially freezing in position, until you indicate otherwise, is clearly a more practical extension of the positional exercises. But “stay” is often misunderstood and therefore misused, leading to an endless cycle of corrections and frustration for both you and your dog.

A Misunderstood Exercise -

The primary reason the Sit! command is abused is that your attention fades and your dog quickly learns that she can move about unnoticed, thus breaking the stay. Another equally important reason is that we sometimes demand more from our dogs than they can do. For example, a dog that reliably stays in place while you’re nearby may not understand that you expect her to stay while you run upstairs; limit-testing pets will quickly learn that the “stay” can be broken when no one’s present to enforce it. The result of all this ambiguity is a jumpy dog and an edgy owner who vacillates over commands. A byproduct of such inconsistent training is a dog that learns to associate training with tension, rather than relaxation.

Starting from Scratch -

No matter what your dog’s level of understanding, if you feel she hasn’t mastered the “stay,” start over again from scratch. Tell your dog to sit or lie down and, assuming these positional exercises have been mastered, delay her reward first by just one second and then progressively for longer periods. Face to face, you can respond to her immediately. If she looks away or starts to move her body, cluck your tongue or say a sharp “Uh-uh,” followed by a brief delay and then a reward (for remaining in place).

Once your dog is successful at waiting for the treat, begin to take a single step to one side (and then back), followed by a reward. If your dog moves, you’ve probably asked her to do too much, too soon; back up in your training to a very short stay.

Practicing this way, you can “test” her with provocative actions, such as: running in place, sitting on the floor, walking around her in circles or clapping your hands. As long as each step is followed by a reward and your distances (or provocations) are increased only gradually, your dog should enjoy and comply with the command. There’s no need to confront her with difficult challenges (such as leaving the room) before she’s ready. When you’re ready to release her, issue a cheerful command, such as "Bingo" or "Free," and shower her with well-deserved praise and play and that last food tidbit.

Editors note: When using food treats for training, it is important to work toward intermittent, randomly supplied food reward. Although continuous (every time) or frequent food reward will help train the long “stay,” converting to the intermittent random schedule of reinforcement will help make the response more consistent and reliable.

"Come" -

Coming to you when called is one of the more important skills your dog can learn. Although we strive never to put our dogs in unsafe situations, the “come” (or “recall”) command can avert a car-dog collision, a deer chase, or other hazards. On a more mundane but practical level, the “come” command presents your dog with opportunities for freedom precisely because you know you can call her back — in the park, on hiking trails, or anywhere.

To train your dog, you have to convince her that you’re more attractive than even temporary freedom. Training sessions should be short and rewards should always be given. But teaching a dog to come reliably is more difficult than it sounds; most dogs learn quickly that they can run faster than you can - and that it’s much more fun to escape than to walk placidly by your side.

Ideally, your dog shouldn’t be given freedom until she has proven her dependability at coming when called. Until then, you might limit her off-lead (leash) experiences to places where you won’t find it necessary to call her back, such as a fenced backyard. Enclosed areas are ideal for training because there’s no risk of escape (or injury) if your dog doesn’t return when you call her.

Live Free or Eat

How can you convince your dog that coming to you is better than running free? Two concepts to keep in mind are restraint (avoid allowing your dog to learn about the rewards of absolute freedom) and positive reinforcement (teach your dog that coming back when she’s called earns rewards).

Restraint can take the form of a long, lightweight check-type lead — check leads up to 50 feet long are available commercially — or just a simple six-foot lead. You need some tool for “capturing” your dog should she choose to be a fugitive from authority.

Positive reinforcements — or rewards — are crucial in any kind of training. For the average dog, food is an ideal reinforcer. Offer an immediate reward – a few pieces of sweetened breakfast cereal or freeze-dried liver bits – every time your dog returns on command, initially, at least. When you feel she’s more reliable about coming to you, wean her back to a reward intermittently, every second or third time, and taper off from there. However, there should always be some form of reward or praise at the end of the recall rainbow.

One Step at a Time -

Starting in a non-distracting environment — such as your living room or the backyard —get your dog’s attention and then back away a short distance. Kneeling on the ground, hold your arms away from your sides and cheerfully shout, “Suzie, COME!” It may also help to run backward a few feet. Remember to keep your voice high and light; no dog is interested in coming to a stern-voiced, glum owner. If this doesn’t work, try “Suzie, come, good girl,” praising her even before she comes so that she knows she’s not in trouble.

Reward her for coming and start over, increasing your distance slightly. Keep these sessions short and don’t expect too much for the first few days. If your dog seems to be losing interest, stop the session after an easy success. As a general rule of dog training, sessions should always be short (approximately five to 10 minutes) and they should always end on a positive note. Gradually increase your distance and, eventually, environmental distractions. When you feel your dog is doing well, try her out in the park or another new place.

Don’t remove your dog’s lead unless you know she’ll return to you; if you’re uncertain, walk up to her rather than calling her to you. Any opportunity to misbehave will quickly teach her that freedom’s more fun.

Never Punish -

One critical rule of training is that you never scold your dog after she comes to you. This is important even if she has just chewed your custom-made, cowboy boots; if she approaches when called, you must praise and reward her. (It's permissible and encouraged, however, to grit your teeth and count slowly to 100 to calm your nerves.) When your dog is familiar with what’s expected, try calling “come” while she’s busy sniffing or playing — again, a clothesline or other long lead, can provide a gentle reminder and eliminate the chances that she’ll reward herself while ignoring you.

All dogs – whether they trot along Manhattan’s Upper East Side or run free in the countryside – should know how to walk on a leash.

Forget about fancy “heeling,” where the dog’s shoulder aligns perfectly with the dog-walker’s knee. We’re talking here about a simple partnership in which the dog and the person on the other end of the leash can get out together in the fresh air without a major struggle.

There are several ways to train a puppy to walk without pulling, but the common denominator, as in all training exercises, is simple: Appropriate behavior is rewarded while inappropriate behavior isn’t. In this case, walking without tugging is appropriate and pulling on lead isn’t.

The reward for walking properly is praise and the walk itself. So what about the negative aspect? How do you withhold a walk? The answer is to stop in your tracks whenever your puppy pulls and don’t start again until the leash slackens. Then, praise the pup and walk on. Then again, you can show your dog who’s the boss by walking in the opposite direction whenever he pulls. If he persists in pulling, you should tell him ``no,’’ but don’t make a fuss. It’s far better to praise him loudly and show affection when he lets the leash loosen up.

Most young puppies resist collars and leads by rolling, scratching and collapsing. But don’t give up. Don’t pick your pup up and carry him, and don’t let him just stroll along beside you without the leash. If you do, you’ll soon have an uncontrollable dog.

Stepping Out

Buy a flat, lightweight nylon or leather buckle-style collar and a four or six-foot lead of the same material (chain leashes are generally a bad idea because of their weight).

Put the collar, without the leash, on the puppy, praising and rewarding him for any sign of acceptance and ignoring his efforts to wriggle out of it. Next, attach the lead and allow the puppy to drag it along, watching carefully to discourage him if he starts to chew it. With patience and some well-timed rewards, your pet may surprise you by how quickly he accepts his new appendage.

Finally, pick up your end of the lead and allow your dog to explore. After this introduction, however, even the youngest puppy’s impulses should be controlled to match your expectations.

Training collars are better for teaching older puppies and adult dogs. Probably the most efficient and humane passive training device is the head collar or head halter, with which even veteran people-yankers can quickly learn to walk nicely. In contrast, the “choke” collar is intended to constrict around the dog’s neck when tightened. Choke-type collars are frequently misused and work on the punishment principle. As the dog pulls, the handler is supposed to deliver a small “jerk” of the lead and then immediately release or loosen the lead. This way, you “correct” (or, more accurately, punish) the dog quickly and decisively. Many people assume a dog will teach himself by choking as he pulls. Countless animals have simply learned to live with this choking device as they tug along, coughing and irritated, but never learning to slow down. The humanity of using choke collars has recently come into question. They should never be used on puppies, toy breeds, or dogs with tracheal or other neck problems. A little knowledge, a lot of patience, and positive training go a lot further when training a pup to walk on lead and are a lot better for your relationship with the pup.