Most of us were taught the importance of a balanced and nutritionally complete diet. But when it comes to knowing what nutrients our pets need to grow properly and stay healthy, we often come up short.

Many years ago, little thought or research was put into the manufacture of pet food, or the proper way to feed our pets. Eventually, in response to consumer demand, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) was formed. Their primary function was to publish feed regulations and ingredient definitions. After much research, committee investigations and feeding trials, nutrient profiles for pets were developed, and guidelines established.

This is still a work in progress. Despite significant advances, the importance and proper levels of some nutrients are still under investigation. The recommendations of AAFCO, for instance, may change when additional information about nutritional health in dogs becomes available. For now, the minimum levels of nutrients that should be included in pet foods are listed. In a few cases, excess amounts of certain nutrients can be damaging so maximum levels are also listed in AAFCO guidelines.

When buying pet food, choose only those products that carry the statement “Formulated to meet the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profile for…” because they follow these guidelines. It is not a requirement to meet AAFCO standards in order to sell pet food, so buyers beware. Check the labels and compare products.

The nutrient list is divided into two separate profiles. One profile is for growing, pregnant or lactating dogs and one is for adult maintenance. The nutrients are listed on a dry matter basis. What this means is that if you are comparing products, the moisture content of the food must be taken into consideration. If the food has 75 percent moisture, then the remaining nutrients make up 25 percent of the food.

Take each nutrient amount and divide by 0.25 to obtain an accurate dry matter amount to compare to the nutrient guidelines or even to compare one food to another. If the moisture content is 10 percent, then 90 percent make up the rest of the nutrients. Divide each nutrient value by 0.9 in order to get an accurate value.

Current AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles:

For Adult Maintenance -

Unless otherwise listed, all values are minimum requirements:

Protein.........18%
Fat..............5%
Calcium......0.6% (maximum 2.5%)
Phosphorus...0.5% (maximum 1.6%)
Potassium.....0.6%
Sodium........0.06%
Chloride.......0.09%
Magnesium.....0.04% (maximum 0.3%)
Iron............80 mg/kg (maximum 3,000 mg/kg)
Copper.........7.3 mg/kg (maximum 250 mg/kg)
Manganese........5 mg/kg
Zinc...........120 mg/kg (maximum 1000 mg/kg)
Iodine.........1.5 mg/kg (maximum 50 mg/kg)
Selenium......0.11 mg/kg (maximum 2 mg/kg)
Vitamin A.....5000 IU/kg (maximum 250,000 IU/kg)
Vitamin D......500 IU/kg (maximum 5000 IU/kg)
Vitamin E.......50 IU/kg (maximum 1000 IU/kg)
Thiamine.........1 mg/kg
Riboflavin.....2.2 mg/kg
Pantothenic Acid..10 mg/kg
Niacin..........11.4 mg/kg
Pyridoxine.........1 mg/kg
Folic Acid......0.18 mg/kg
Vitamin B12.....0.022 mg/kg
Choline.........1200 mg/kg

For growing puppies, pregnant and lactating bitches -

The majority of nutrient minimums are the same except for the items listed. The maximum for those listed does not change.

Protein...........22%
Fat................8%
Calcium............1%
Phosphorus.......0.8%
Sodium...........0.3%
Chloride........0.45%
Vitamin B12....0.022 mg/kg

Most dry dog foods are soybean, corn or rice based. Some of the better brands have meat or fish meal as the first listed ingredient. Although higher priced, they are worth looking into. Dogs eat less of the higher quality products, thus reducing the cost. Dry dog foods also have greater "caloric density" which means simply, there is less water in a cup of food as compared to a canned food diet. This is not a big issue for our smaller canine friends, but large dogs may have difficulty eating enough volume of canned food to fulfill their caloric needs (because they also get a lot of water in that food). Overall, the choice of "dry" vs. "canned" vs. "semi-moist" is an individual one, but larger dogs (such as those greater than 30 pounds) should be fed a dry or semi-moist food in most circumstances

How Often?

There are various methods of feeding dogs. Sometimes, the age and size of the pet plays a role and sometimes the habits of the dog. There are two common methods of feeding; free choice and limited time feeding.

Free Choice -

Many people choose to keep the dog food bowl full at all times. This allows the dog to eat whenever he wants and can also eat as much as he wants. Though very easy, this method of feeding is usually not recommended. By keeping the bowl full, you cannot monitor the amount of food your pet is eating, leading to obesity. If your family includes several dogs, free choice feeding often makes it difficult to determine if one pet is eating more or eating less. For some dogs that eat small amounts frequently throughout the day or toy breed dogs prone to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), free choice feeding may be acceptable. Each morning, the bowl is filled with the day’s ration. Regardless of when the bowl is emptied, no more food is to be added to the bowl until the following day, else you end up with a chubby puppy.

Limited Timed Feeding -

The preferred method of feeding is to feed small meals, several times through the day. The day’s total ration is divided over several feedings. The number of feedings is based on the pet’s age and size. For each feeding, the specified amount of food is offered to the dog. If not eaten right away, the food should be removed in 20 minutes and not offered again until the next scheduled feeding. It may take your pup several tries to understand that he needs to eat the food when it is offered, or a meal will be missed.

Puppies less than 3 months of age should be fed four times per day. For example, if your puppy’s size and age dictates that he should be fed one cup of food per day, offer 1/4 cup food four times a day. If the pup does not eat at one of the feedings, don’t add more food later. Each feeding, regardless of if it is eaten or not, should contain 1/4 cup of food.

When the pup is between 3 to 6 months old feed three meals per day. Remember to check the manufacturer’s recommendations on how much to feed. As your puppy ages, his size increases, and he will need more food each day. This amount of food is divided into 3 feedings.

Once your dog is over 6 months of age, his adult feeding pattern can be established. Some dogs do well on one feeding a day but two feedings a day is usually recommended. Small breeds and toy dogs should continue to be fed three times a day, to help prevent hypoglycemia.

For multi-dog families, limited time feeding is recommended. You may even have to feed each dog in a separate room. Provide the allotted amount of food and only allow access for 20 minutes. When the time is up, remove the food bowls and any remaining food. This can help you monitor each dog’s appetite and help prevent a dog on a diet from taking an extra helping.

Routine, Routine, Routine -

Dogs thrive on routine so decide on a feeding pattern early in your pet’s life and stick to it. You may want to consider feeding your dog while the family dines. This can occupy your pet while the family eats and keeps him from begging or creating problems during the family meal.

Just Weaned and Above -

If your puppy is newly weaned, he needs about twice the maintenance energy requirement of adult dogs. As your puppy ages, his need for higher nutrient density decreases. When he reaches 40 percent of his adult weight, he’ll require roughly 1.6 times as much as an adult dog; at 80 percent of adult weight, he’ll require 1.2 times as much. These estimates may be off by up to 20 percent, depending on individual dog variation.

Feeding Puppies -

Before he is weaned (at about 2 1/2 weeks of age), your puppy may begin to eat solid food three or more times a day. Start him on dry puppy food mixed with warm water and stirred into a gruel.

When he reaches seven weeks of age or so, start slowly decreasing the moisture content of the gruel-like mixture. When he’s about 3 months old, you can switch the pup to twice-a-day feedings of puppy food. Between 6 and 8 months, gradually mix the puppy food into an adult formula over several weeks time.

How to Feed a Litter -

Take the heaviest pup away when the food is first set out, to allow the smaller littermates a chance to eat. Put him back later, leaving him less eating time. Likewise, the mother dog should be removed for a short period or she’ll consume the entire portion before the puppies have had enough time to eat.

Baby Fat -

During his first few weeks, your puppy should be on the roly-poly side. If he continues to look chubby between 10 and 13 weeks old, restrict his diet slightly. Monitor his weight and, once he reaches three and a half to four months, restrict his diet – not to make him lean, just to make sure he doesn’t get too fat. If you’re not sure his weight is right, check with your veterinarian.

At the 5- to 6-month period, depending on his breed, your puppy may have a dramatic growth spurt. He may get long, lean and a little thin. By the time he’s about one-and-a-half to two years of age, his body will catch up.

Puppy Diet vs. All Stages -

Commercial puppy food is best. This kind of a diet provides all the nutrient he needs, especially his energy and protein requirements. A diet labeled for “all life stages” will also provide sufficient nutrients, but because it is closer to a maintenance level, your puppy will have to eat more “All Stages” than puppy formula. From three weeks of age up to 20 weeks, your puppy’s growth rate is astronomical, and his food intake must keep up. During this period, medium-sized dogs, such as pointers and setters, require approximately 3 1/2 lbs. of dry food to put on one pound of body weight. Large breeds require slightly less, smaller breeds a little more. If you are using canned food, use approximately one-third this amount, as these diets are more nutrient-dense.

Note: For puppies of large or giant breeds, look for special foods of lower nutrient density. With these dogs, rapid growth can exacerbate degenerative hip problems or joint disease. Although hip dysplasia is a genetic problem, overfeeding at a young age can contribute to it.

Feeding Do's and Don'ts -

There are plenty of puppy foods out there. Once you find one your dog likes, stick to it.

According to Dr. Tony Buffington, Professor of Clinical Nutrition, Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine, your puppy can be fed a regimen of specific caloric intake compared to his body condition score (BCS), using a simple one to five scale, from overly thin to obese. Using manufacturer feeding recommendations as an initial starting point, feed your puppy to a score of two and maintain this weight until he’s fully grown.

Feed whatever amount is necessary to maintain a BCS of two during the growth period, realizing that dogs have varying growth rates and activity levels. Once his adult stature is achieved, you may allow him to reach a score of three.

When to Switch to Adult Dog Food -

You waited until your puppy was at least 8 weeks old before you brought her home. You have plenty of toys and treats. She never misses a veterinary appointment and has been fed the proper puppy diet. Now, the question is, when do you begin switching to adult dog food?

Growing puppies should only be fed a high quality growth-type diet. But the amount of food the puppy eats is also important. Pups should not be able to eat at will, so don't keep his bowl filled all the time. Overeating as the puppy grows can lead to devastating skeletal and nutritional disorders, as well as obesity. Also, supplementing his diet with vitamins and minerals can cause serious illness and should only be done on the advice of your veterinarian.

For most breeds, offer food twice a day for 20 minutes. If your puppy does not eat in that 20 minutes, remove the food and wait to feed the evening meal. Your puppy will quickly learn that food is not always available and he will eat when it is offered. For toy breeds, food should be offered three times a day. This feeding schedule can continue throughout the pup’s life. If you prefer free-choice feeding, wait until the pet is at least 12 months of age. For giant breed dogs, wait until about 18 months of age.

Once you have chosen a good quality puppy food, continue feeding this diet until your dog reaches 80 to 90 percent of his anticipated adult weight. For most dogs, this occurs around 9 months of age.

Giant breed dogs pose a special problem. These breeds are prone to skeletal problems if not fed properly during their growing phase. There are now special diets for giant breed puppies. For optimal health, feed your giant breed pup this special diet until he is 12 to 18 months of age.

Once your puppy has reached the age for a diet change, gradually begin changing his diet by feeding ¼ adult food and ¾ puppy food for a few days. Then add ½ adult food and ½ puppy food. After a few more days, feed ¾ adult food and ¼ puppy food. Then, you can feed straight adult food.

If you have any concerns about changing your puppy’s diet, consult your veterinarian for advice.

The proper diet is very important in the care of an aging dog. However, there is no best food to feed a geriatric dog; the best food depends on the specific problems or nutritional requirements of the individual animal. Most foods for older dogs are lower in protein, sodium and phosphorus to help their aging hearts and kidneys. Increased amounts of certain vitamins have also been found to be beneficial in the senior dog.

Obesity is a very common problem of older animals and should be taken seriously. It directly correlates to a decreased longevity, and may contribute to other problems. For the best health care, provide your older dog a good quality food that is appropriate for his specific needs, and do not allow your dog to gain excessive weight. Try not to give table scraps, and stick with a consistent diet.

Dogs that are arthritic have a far more difficult time moving and may require strong anti-inflammatory drugs to ease their discomfort. Weight loss in these animals may have great impact on improving their quality of life. Your veterinarian can prescribe or recommend special lower calorie, high fiber diets that make weight loss easier.

Additionally, through the geriatric work-up, special nutritional requirements or restrictions may be recommended. These diets attempt to either slow the development of the disease process, or improve specific organ function. Special diets for many diseases (even in the early stages), including kidney, liver, gastrointestinal, heart, dental and skin disease, are available. Diets for diabetes and cancer may also be recommended.

Proper nutritional management is a very important part of the care for your geriatric dog, especially since it is something that you have control over.

The proper diet is very important in the care of an aging dog. However, there is no best food to feed a geriatric dog; the best food depends on the specific problems or nutritional requirements of the individual animal. Most foods for older dogs are lower in protein, sodium and phosphorus to help their aging hearts and kidneys. Increased amounts of certain vitamins have also been found to be beneficial in the senior dog.

Obesity is a very common problem of older animals and should be taken seriously. It directly correlates to a decreased longevity, and may contribute to other problems. For the best health care, provide your older dog a good quality food that is appropriate for his specific needs, and do not allow your dog to gain excessive weight. Try not to give table scraps, and stick with a consistent diet.

Dogs that are arthritic have a far more difficult time moving and may require strong anti-inflammatory drugs to ease their discomfort. Weight loss in these animals may have great impact on improving their quality of life. Your veterinarian can prescribe or recommend special lower calorie, high fiber diets that make weight loss easier.

Additionally, through the geriatric work-up, special nutritional requirements or restrictions may be recommended. These diets attempt to either slow the development of the disease process, or improve specific organ function. Special diets for many diseases (even in the early stages), including kidney, liver, gastrointestinal, heart, dental and skin disease, are available. Diets for diabetes and cancer may also be recommended.

Proper nutritional management is a very important part of the care for your geriatric dog, especially since it is something that you have control over.

Obesity in dogs is a major health concern. Just as with people, obesity can lead to very serious health problems. Diabetes, pancreatitis, arthritis and heart disease are just a few of the problems that can be caused by or worsened if your pet is overweight. While many pets are fortunate to stay naturally slim, there are those who seem to get fat with little effort.

And then there are those accomplished actors who have refined the business of asking for a morsel to an art form. Here are a few suggestions for offering your pet some healthy alternatives when you want to give them a treat.

If your pet has any type of weight problem (underweight as well as overweight) please check with your veterinarian to rule out possible causes. If your pet has dietary restrictions, discuss giving any new food with your vet.

Vegetables -

Anyone who's ever seen a dog eat grass or greens knows there's a vegetarian side to your pet. Before domestication, when dogs hunted for their living, they ate the entrails of their prey, which contained a considerable amount of digested vegetable matter. Most animals still want some of this vegetation, but can't digest the tough fibrous components on their own. Try offering your dog some cooked green beans, carrots or peas. Many pets love them, and you can even mix them into their regular diet.

Rice, Popcorn and Pasta -

Another favorite for many pets are rice, popcorn and pasta. A bit of a rice cake or some air popped popcorn is a great substitute for a high fat treat. Cooked rice can be added for bulk to a weight control diet. It's a way of giving your pet more food without adding a lot of fat calories. Cooked pasta is also great. Many pets relish a few elbow macaroni or other plain pasta.

Egg Whites, Cottage Cheese and Yogurt -

A cooked egg white is a great protein treat, hard boil a few and keep them on hand. (The yolk has all the fat!) A little dab of cottage cheese or plain yogurt substitutes for licking that ice cream bowl!

Prescription Diets -

If your pet has a health problem that is being controlled on a prescription diet from your veterinarian, sometimes treats have to be eliminated. Ask your veterinarian if a canned formulation of the diet is available. Most companies do make both canned and dried versions. Remove the food from the can in one large piece. Use a cheese slicer or knife to cut 1/4-inch slices and put them on a cookie sheet. Bake them at 300 degrees Fahrenheit until they are crispy, like a cracker. This gives your pet a crunchy treat that stays within the diet plan.

Food Sensitivities -

Many pets have allergies or food sensitivities. Common culprits are dyes, flavorings, preservatives, carbohydrates and protein sources. If your pet is sensitive to any of these components, look for treats that are hypoallergenic, and have minimal or no dyes or preservatives. There are a number available in your local pet store.

The Last Word -

If you can't resist feeding your pet little extras from the table or sharing every meal you have with him, consider carefully what you may be doing. A small dog that would normally weigh 10 to 12 pounds can gain a considerable amount of weight being given an overabundance of treats. A weight gain of one pound may not seem like much but to a small pet, one pound can be 10 percent of his body weight. That's like 15 pounds for a person! Use some healthy alternatives to help keep your pet in his best shape.

Rawhide is the inner layer of the hide usually from a cow. Many people give pieces of rawhide to their pets as toys (often to keep them busy) and to help their teeth. It is theorized that dogs like rawhide due to their natural instincts as wild dogs. Historically, wild dogs attacked and bit their prey, sank their teeth into the animals flesh and pulled away on the hide to obtain the meat.

General Information on Rawhide -

• Rawhide may serve as a simulation to this wild instinct. Many dogs, especially young dogs, have the natural instinct to chew. Rawhide may give dogs and puppies the ability to chew an acceptable “toy,” while benefiting from the mechanical action of chewing, which applies pressure on the gums and teeth and scrapes the teeth while chewing.
  
• It is important for a dog not to be able to chew off and swallow large pieces as this may cause vomiting and/or diarrhea. It is also important that the rawhide be large enough that the pet cannot swallow it whole. If a large piece is eaten, it is usually digested with time and rarely causes a surgical problem; however, it can make your pet uncomfortable.
  
• When the rawhide gets small enough that it can be swallowed, it should be taken away from your pet.
  
• There are calories in rawhide. There is also protein and it is digestible but is not considered a “food” item. Rawhide should only be offered in addition to a balanced diet. Although there are mentioned benefits of rawhides, the calories can add up. Moderation is the key. Some suggest that two hours worth of chewing a day is adequate for most pets.
  
• Pets with a history of vomiting, diarrhea, allergies and who are on a special diet should not have rawhide until you check with your veterinarian. The material in the rawhide probably is not a problem for most dogs, although some can be allergic to it. The real problem is that some dogs have a tendency to swallow too large a piece of the rawhide and it can get stuck in their esophagus, stomach or intestines, and require surgical removal.
  

Bones are not as healthy as you may think. Some dogs may never develop a problem associated with chewing bones but some may. And, some bone related problems can be very serious. With so many alternatives and little need for chewing real bones, are the benefits worth the risks?

Potential Complications -

Unfortunately, if you decide to give your pet a bone, or he finds one in the trash, he may be getting more than just a tasty treat. Bones do not break down easily. This means your pet may have to pass them through his stool. This often leads to a serious impaction and constipation, requiring a trip to the veterinarian. Bones can also be a choking hazard and can cause possible intestinal bleeding if the bone shards break off and tear the intestinal lining.

Types of Bone Problems -

Thin bones, such as ribs, can get lodged in the throat or even the roof of the mouth. In one case, a Doberman suffered several days with a rib bone lodged in the roof of his mouth. By that time, the bone had cause significant tissue damage to the roof of the mouth and surrounding gums.

Round steak bones also pose a threat because they can get wedged around the lower jaw. Veterinarians often must use bolt cutters or even hacksaws to remove them, which is extremely uncomfortable for the dog and may require sedation.

Chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous. They are more fragile and splinter easily. Splintered bones can cause perforation of the mouth, throat, intestines and colon, causing internal trauma.

What to Watch For -

• Struggling to breathe
• Straining to go to the bathroom
• Bloody diarrhea
• Pawing at the mouth
• Lack of appetite
• VomitingAlternatives

The safest thing to do is to only give “bones” that have been designed for dogs to chew on. This can include Nylabones© which tend to be relatively indestructible and are often flavored. Another alternative is to offer him acceptable chew toys. Rawhide toys, given in moderation, are fun to chew, for instance. Again, be careful how often you offer a rawhide toy because pieces can break off and cause constipation.

Body fat - Stand behind your dog and place your thumbs on the spine midway down the back. Fan out your fingers and spread them over the ribs. With your thumbs lightly pressing on the spine and fingers on the ribs, slide your hands gently up and down.

If your dog is normal, you will feel a thin layer of fat, and you will be able to feel the ribs, although you won’t be able to see them. If your dog is too thin, you will readily feel the ribs, and you will see them, too.

Appearance - Normal dogs have an hourglass appearance. Thin dogs have a very narrowed waist and protruding rib cage. The processes of the spine are evident and the shoulder blades readily apparent.

If you feel that your dog is too thin, contact your veterinarian. Tests may need to be performed to eliminate underlying disease as a cause of the thinness. In addition, your veterinarian can help you improve your dog’s body condition and overall health.

A fat dog is not necessarily a happy dog. In fact, his health may be at serious risk, and he may even grow depressed. There are many reasons why pets become obese but the two main reasons are: Eating too much and not getting exercise enough. As long as a medium-sized dog is no more than a few pounds over its optimal body weight, there may be no cause for concern. But if the extra weight amounts to more than 15 percent over ideal body weight, the dog is clinically obese and there will be health risks to consider.

The greater an animal's caloric intake over the course of his life, the shorter that life span will be. People talk about vitamins and minerals, amino acids, and supplements that might keep our pets healthy, but caloric intake alone is the single biggest determinant of an animal's (or person's) life span. It's a simple formula: More calories = fewer years.

Obesity is accompanied by a set of physical problems that may contribute to an affected pet's premature demise. Fat dogs have an increased risk of developing cardiovascular disease, respiratory disease, liver disease, diabetes, orthopedic problems, and even neurological problems. As our dogs'protectors, we should take obesity seriously and feed and exercise our canine companions sensibly.

Reduce Caloric Intake -

One way to reduce the caloric intake is to reduce the amount of food we are feeding – but this should be done with proper forethought and appropriate advice. “Crash diets” are never appropriate. Drastic reduction of food intake:

a) Is potentially dangerous
b) Is inhumane
c) Contributes to the “yo-yo syndrome” of sudden weight loss followed by rapid weight gain if the original feeding regimen is reinstated.

The yo-yo syndrome is the reason so many people fail to lose weight when they put themselves on a diet. If any animal (including humans) does not get enough food for a while, its body goes into “crash-dive” starvation mode, in which any calories absorbed are utilized with maximum efficiency. If feeding meals infrequently is not the answer, and eating whenever you want doesn't work, there must be a happy medium – and there is. Feed enough food for the dog to lose weight, at a frequency that doesn't make its body “think” it's facing starvation. For dogs, twice daily feeding of reasonable amounts of high fiber, low fat dog food is a good approach. Also, treats should be suitably formulated, should be small, and strictly rationed. But even when such measures are engaged, some dogs still don't lose weight.

This is when you should enlist your veterinarian's help. He or she may check your dog for medical causes of weight gain, including hypothyroidism or Cushing's syndrome. Medical problems, when present, should be addressed first. If medical causes of obesity are not involved, a supervised calorie-restricted diet is probably in order. Diets such as Hill's Science Diet® weight reduction (“r/d”) and Purina® “OM” overweight management diet are excellent. Purina supplies veterinarians with a computer program so that they can calculate exact daily rations for their patients. This is done by simply plugging in the weight of the dog and the desired rate of weight loss and the computer calculates how much of the ration to feed.

The program limits the dog's weight loss to no more than 4 percent per week to prevent problems associated with overly rapid loss of weight. The essence of weight-loss diets is to provide a proper balance of nutrients while meeting the special dietary needs of the overweight patient. Weight reduction diets tend to be low fat and high fiber. This makes food restriction less psychologically stressful by helping the dog to feel “full.”

Medical Conditions and Obesity -

The most well known medical cause of obesity is hypothyroidism. It is also the most common genetic disease of purebred dogs, according to the American Kennel Club (AKC). The strange thing is that, though hypothyroidism can lead to obesity, when thyroid levels are restored to normal by treatment, weight does not usually fall off the overweight hypothyroid dog as quickly as you might imagine. For some reason, a weight-reducing diet usually has to be used in concert with thyroid hormone replacement therapy if optimal weight loss is to be achieved in a reasonable period of time.

For dogs with Cushing’s syndrome, weight loss is a feature of successful therapy. In such cases, dietary measures are not called for. The overweight appearance of dogs with Cushing’s syndrome is partly due to poor abdominal muscle tone, which gives them a pot-bellied appearance. This change is also reversible with appropriate therapy.

Psychological Causes -

Just about any psychologically stressful situation can lead anxious dogs to engage in what are called “displacement behaviors.” Displacement behaviors include eating, drinking, grooming, chasing, running or walking, and so on. All are natural behaviors but, in this instance, are performed excessively during moments of stress to reduce the impact of the stress or conflict.

If the conflict is prolonged, the displacement behavior can become ingrained. It is as if the neural pathways involved have become well-worn and facilitated. At this stage, the displacement behavior may have reached the proportions of an obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) and will be performed out of the context of obvious stress. If the OCD takes the form of excess eating, the dog will gain weight. OCDs are a sad behavioral testimony to earlier or existing chronic, inescapable or unmanageable conflict.

The first rule of treatment is to identify and eliminate all existing causes of conflict and to make sure that the dog has a happy and healthy lifestyle, replete with opportunities for exercise and entertainment. But even if these conditions are met, many dogs continue on their relentless task of either compulsive eating, self-licking, tail chasing, or similar behavior. In such cases, fluoxetine (Prozac®), paroxetine (Paxil®), fluvoxamine (Luvox®), or other anti-obsessional drug therapy, may be helpful. If the diagnosis is correct and the treatment is applied in the correct manner, the weight may practically fall off a compulsive overeater.

Exercise -

Though not a good primary strategy for causing weight loss, exercise can help. Theoretically, dogs and people have to exercise quite a lot to lose even a little weight, yet exercise does help. It provides an outlet for pent-up energies that might otherwise transmute into anxious eating behavior. Exercise also generates increased amounts of a neurotransmitter, serotonin, in the brain. Serotonin has two effects that might be relevant in overeating: First, it helps to prevent anxiety, depression, and has anti-obsessive properties. Second, it reduces appetite.

Conclusion -

Losing excessive weight can enrich your dog's life. Even in the early stages of carefully-gauged, well-monitored diet restriction, overweight dogs begin to display changes in temperament and behavior that indicate that they are feeling better. They play more, sleep less, and become more active. It's as if they’re saying, “Thank you for rescuing me from my dietary dilemma.”